FOOD & DRINK

It’s Cool

September 6, 2012 |

by Monica Surfaro Spigelman

Is it hot enough? No need to remind Tucsonans that this oven isn’t expected to turn down any time soon. No problem: Let it broil. Because we can beat the heat with a stick, cup or cone.

July is National Ice Cream Month, designated so by President Ronald Reagan in 1984, so we’re saluting our city’s imaginative cold concoctions. Tucson has so many options for sweetly old-fashioned, defiantly spicy or sour wonders, it’s hard to pick a favorite from all the artisan crafters who are taking frozen comfort to new levels.

History Churns
Scooping his way to the top of the list may be one of the early adopters of ice cream as art form: Eric Lepie. Before there was Ben & Jerry’s there was Eric, churning small batches of oddly wonderful and buttery ice cream from his small shop, first located on Broadway and then in multiple locations dotting our city. Lepie and his ice cream now live at 1702 E. Speedway Blvd. In the 1970s, as now, Eric’s ice creams were eccentric, tasty delights like Gentle Persuasion (prune and oatmeal; get it?) and Cranial Crucial Crusader Crunch (coffee-based, made for astronauts, no kidding). His quality flavors attracted both the famous (Liberace was a customer) as well as loyal locals.

What’s the big deal about ice cream? “It’s just good old-fashioned stuff,” Lepie says, who was ahead of his time with his 1970s weird concoctions. Today, customers still bring grandkids into 1702 asking for revivals of old favorites.

“It’s about fun memories as much as flavor and texture,” says the guy who still reigns supreme in Tucson’s ice cream world. “But no kidding: Your senses will know when the ice cream is good. There’s no mistaking quality.”

So whether your preference is decadently creamy, refreshingly thirst-quenching, sans lactose, vegan or gluten free – turn the page for a few of Tucson’s eclectic frozen options. Get those tongues or recycled spoons and straws ready: ‘Tis the season to dig in to the delicious.

ICE CREAM

1702
1702 E. Speedway Blvd. 1702AZ.com
This haven for craft-brewed IPAs and great pizza has a secret ingredient: It’s Eric, in the back working magic with his Emery Thompson ice cream machine. For years Eric has been creating unmistakable signature ice cream with his delicious pairings and use of deeply wholesome ingredients. Enthusiasts fly in to pick up a few pints for gourmet dining in the Grand Canyon. There are old standards as well as new flavors with good stuff like green chili. Lactose-intolerant beware: only high butterfat content sold here.


Chocolate Iguana
500 N. 4th Ave., ChocolateIguanaon4th.com
You can amuse yourself with nostalgic toys and gnomes as you cool off with your scoop of Dreyers. All sorts of toppings at this decades-old family-run institution. The signature Chocolate Iguana needs a straw, with its mint chocolate chips, whipped cream topping and edible iguana tail (mint stick).

Coldstone Creamery
1927 E. Speedway Blvd. (and four other locations), ColdstoneCreamery.com
They claim they make it the way you want it and it’s true. Your choice of ice cream, made fresh daily, is slapped on the marble slab and then generously swirled with sprinkles or whatever you want mixed in. There are some low-fat options and some non-dairy sorbet flavors.

Hub
266 E. Congress St. HubDowntown.com
A hand-forged USA-made batch freezer is the artisan instrument that helps design the delicious ice creams crafted at The Hub. This summer watch for a bevy of new flavors that take your ice cream to new hip heights, including a spicy rocky road or peach upside down cake. Count on old favorites like salted caramel, as well, in cups or cones. So scoop your fix of cardamom vanilla, head up to the Playground, and leave the heat behind as you watch a sunset.

 

Isabella’s Ice Cream
Solar-powered truck with a semi-permanent station at Bookmans, 1930 E. Grant Rd. & at local events.IsabellasIceCream.com
For ice cream lovers who fondly recall running after the Good Humor or soft serve ice cream parlors on wheels, there’s Isabella’s of Tucson with its beautifully-fashioned ice creams and sorbets. The ice cream is made with local ingredients (cream from Sarah Farms of Yuma, cane from Mexico, local eggs, locally roasted beans for coffee ice cream), as natural as you can get (pure cocoa powder, fresh fruit purees). Expect a lot more sorbets this summer with fruit fresh from local farms. The station at Bookman’s, like the trucks, is green construction and of course will offer sustainable containers, napkins and spoons. Watch their Facebook page for news about the Bookmans’ station hours and special events.

Santa Barbara Ice Creamery
1058 N. Campbell Ave., 323-1231
Its McConnell’s-brand ice cream churned in Santa Barbara, with plenty of flavors and ice cream cake yum. Local Jo Jensen was a Baskin Robbins franchisee who stayed true to ice cream that can burst with flavor and chunks of candy flecks, depending on your mood.
In an email to Zocalo, Jensen writes: “I’m a little ‘independent’ ice cream shop. I’m not a franchise or a chain. I try to find the best ‘real’ ice cream (the milk from the cows is not treated with rBST) and flavors that customers want that I can. I’m always out looking for new flavors. I don’t make the ice cream here but I sure do make a lot of special order cakes.”


SHAVED ICE FRESCA

Sonoran Sno Cone
Mercado San Agustin, 100 S. Avenida del Convento, MercadoSanAgustin.com 
Everyone seems to have their favorite haunt for Tucson’s south of the border bit of summer heaven, theraspados. This kicked-up snow cone is full of diced fresh summer fruits, dollops of ice cream and assorted Mexican syrups. It can be spicy Mango yada or just have sweet berry goodness. Sonoran Sno Cone in the Mercado courtyard is one downtown raspado fav, and this summer expect an evolution at Sonoran Sno Cones with a fresh fruit & veggie juice bar.

For other ways to sing summer’s olé, don’t forget El Charro Café, 311 S. Court, ElCharroCafe.com, where kids can have paletas and adults enjoy scoops or bowls of vanilla bean ice cream drizzled with dulce de lechesyrup.

More Sonora freshness is at Little Poca Cosa, 151 N. Stone Ave., LittlePocaCosa.com, where cool whitehorchata and authentic aquas frescas with summer fruits are fresh daily. Straws required.


GELATOS

Frost 
2905 E. Skyline Dr. #286 (and two other locations), FrostGelato.com
If you want to take butterfat down a notch, Italy-inspired gelato is a refreshing alternative. Tucson offers several gelaterias – Frost, run by two University of Arizona Eller grads, is a Foothills or East Side choice, with high-quality fruits and toppings blended into its fat-free sorbets and fine gelatos. The blue décor and sparkling cases are an authentic and fresh Italian presentation. Gluten-free folks, remember to avoid the cookie stick offered with each confection.

Allegro: Il Gelato Naturale 
446 N. Campbell Ave. #120, GelatoAllegro.com
More authenticity closer to the University is found at Allegro, where two large circular cases offer unique flavor combinations including pineapple basil and salted caramel. Vegan, gluten and dairy-free requirements respected here as well as the fresh and creamy.

Brooklyn Pizza Company
534 N. 4th Ave., BrooklynPizzaCompany.com 
Brooklyn offers a variety of flavors of rich Italian ice cream and dairy free Italian ices. Available in two scoops, pints and 3 gallons for catering.  They are also able to make custom flavors for special events.

ICE POPS, SLURRIES & SPRINKLES

There are many others curating innovative ice sticks or jumbo slurpies in a variety of zesty flavors. Scan this quick-hit list for your favorite:

Cyclopsicle
Mobile unit, various locations, Cyclopsicle.com 
Find Gus pedaling pineapple jalapeño, cantaloupe or other unique paletas. Word has it they’ll soon be made in the Mercado’s commercial kitchen. Check the Facebook page for summer locations.

Eegee’s 
1400 N. Stone Ave. (and over 20 Tucson locales), Eegees.com 
Can’t forget a mention of this Tucson original, whose slushes are hot day crowd favorites. Get your brain-freeze slush drink in variety of summer lactose-free flavors.

Epic Café 
745 N. 4th Ave. Epic-Cafe.com 
You’ll line up here for scoops of Breyers or beloved blueberry almond crumble sundaes. The Epic Orange Cream – mandarin orange, vanilla bean syrup, Perrier, topped with homemade whipped cream comes with an orange straw.

Xoom Juice 
245 E. Congress St. (and two other locations), XoomJuice.com
Any smoothie can be made non-dairy, all with pure fruit  and  juices. You also can go creamy with the soy espresso infusionals.

Cafe Passé 
415 N. 4th Ave. CafePasse.com 
Go vegan, gluten and lactose free with Oscar Wilde and its chunks of mango and shot of passion fruit.

Ike’s Coffee & Tea 
100 N. Stone Ave. #111, 3400 E. Speedway Blvd. #121
Caffeinate as well as refresh with one of Ike’s shakes, including the German Chocolate chiller.

Caffé Milano 
46 W. Congress St. 628-1601, CaffeMilano.com
Old-country Italy is downtown on the Caffé Milano patio (re-opening after Carlo and Laura’s return from Milan on July 18). Lunchtime you can stop by for a mangia e bevi. Translated “eat and drink,” this is simple Italian comfort refreshment – your basic ice cream sundae with ice cream and fresh fruit. Order a strong steamy espresso (schiumato with foam) on the side and drip your espresso over the chilled treat. Sit back and (almost!) feel as you would if you were al fresco in Milan.

GOOD OL’ CHAINS

Baskin Robbins 
904 E. University Ave. (and eight other locations), BaskinRobbins.com 
Can’t talk summer cool without mention of this rainbow-sprinkled specialty chain on University. Select your fix from rows of sweet concoctions and lots of topping choices including marshmallow or fudge. Check website for promotion and summer flavor treats, like strawberry-lemonade sherbet.

Dairy Queen
501 N. 4th Ave. DairyQueen.com
Dilly bars, dipped cones, parfaits – it is Tucson’s favorite All-American, soft-served goodness! This temptation has been a 4th Avenue mainstay for more than half a century. Who doesn’t line up on a summer evening for a chocolate-dipped soft serve or a beloved Blizzard, full of fruit, chocolate, cookie or candy. Watch for summer specials. You can go gluten or lactose-free here with their slushies.

Pinkberry 
University of Arizona Student Union, 1303 E. University Ave. Pinkberry.com
Since 2005, this now-global franchise has been the anti-ice-cream frozen yogurt of choice for healthy summer refreshment, and it is here in Tucson on campus. Its fresh fruit and eclectic toppings are great-taste options. Lots of live and active cultures are offered in traditional and season flavors. Watermelon Pinkberry is a thirst-quencher. Kosher certified. Pinkberry takes pains to note that: “While we take steps to minimize the risk of cross contamination, we cannot guarantee that any of our products are safe to consumer for people with peanut, tree nut, soy, milk, egg or wheat allergies.”

We’ve come a long way since Roman emperor Nero ordered ice to be brought from the mountains and combined with fruit toppings. Tucsonans are handcrafting some spicy and artsy pleasures. Go enjoy something off-beat! In this heat, ice cream or a frosty alternative is your best friend!

Photos top to bottom: Kristel Johnson of Isabella fame shows off her locally produced and sourced ice creams, including chocolate chocolate chip, cookies and cream, mixed berry sorbet and pistachio nut, photo by Lee Spigelman; Eric Lepie’s hot weather antidote at 1702, photo by Lee Spigelmen; HUB Ice Creamery, photo Edward McCain, courtesy of HUB; A Mango Strawberry Sonoran Sno Cone, made from the freshest fruits and syrups, photo by Lee Spigelmen.


 




Rockin’ the Bar at Surly Wench Pub

September 6, 2012 |

by Kelly Lewis

Jasmine Pierce, a lead bartender at Surly Wench Pub, is one lucky lady.

“I live kind of a charmed life,” Pierce said. “I’ve designed my life so that I’m able to do what I want, when I want, and I love it.”

When she’s not working the bar at Surly Wench Pub, 424 N. 4th Ave., Pierce is a local landlord, a dog owner, a sister to five and a friend to many. Originally from Tucson, Pierce, 32, started bartending at 19 after a move to New York City. When the weather got to be too cold, she came back to Tucson and sauntered into the Surly Wench Pub.

“I said, ‘Hi, I’m Jasmine. I see you’ve named a bar after me, so I guess you should probably hire me,’ and that was it,” Pierce said. “We’re a tight knit crew here. I love coming to work because it’s not even like coming to work; I get to hang out with my family that I work with and regulars who are friends. I just kind of feel blessed with everything in my life.”

From punk rock nights to Black Cherry Burlesque shows, there’s something happening at Surly Wench Pub almost every night of the week, which Pierce says helps to keep things interesting. The crowd is diverse but fun, and their late night cash-only kitchen serves classic bar food—burgers, nachos and wings—until the wee hours.

The food is good, Pierce said, so good that you can find her at Surly Wench Pub even when she’s not working, eating and joking with whoever is behind the bar. But the best part about working at Surly Wench Pub, Pierce says, is that her customers are very respectful…for the most part.

“Walking in here is like walking into our living room,” Pierce said. “We want you to have a good time, but we also want everyone else to have a good time, so if you come in here with your douchebaggery and a bad attitude, it’s not going to fly. Be respectful of us, and this place and you will love this bar.”

On Trends in Mixology: “The trends are always kind of the same. I think there are a lot more orders for classic cocktails now. It has gone back to speakeasy style, but I feel like it’s always been there. I love, love, love making classic cocktails: Old Fashioneds, Martinis, Manhattans… I can make the sh*t out of some classic cocktails.”

Favorite Ingredients: “Jameson, Jameson and Jameson. It has the most amazing flavor and it’s just kind of perfect all of the time. I am loyal to my whiskey. If I’m out drinking, it’s Jameson or nothing—I’ll switch to vodka.”

Jameson Kamikaze 
1-1/2 oz. Jameson
1/2 oz. Triple Sec
Splash of Sweet and Sour
1 lemon, freshly squeezed
Shake, strain and serve. Party in your mouth!

For more information, visit SurlyWenchPub.com or call 882-0009. 

Dragoon Brewery’s Crafty Suds

September 6, 2012 |

by Kelly Lewis

Think you know your beer? Dragoon Brewing Co., a craft brewery that opened just last month at 1859 W. Grant Rd. #111, is testing the talents of your taste buds.

Having just celebrated their May 18 grand opening, Dragoon Brewing Co. began with two brews, Dragoon IPA and Stronghold Session Ale, which were created, in part, to toy with our perception of beers, said Eric Greene, head of brewing.

“We wanted to play with peoples’ idea of what a light beer is and what a dark beer is,” Greene said. “IPA is a strong beer but it’s pale in color and it’s approached more easily, whereas Session is an easy drinking beer that’s darker, but it’s not going to flatten you.”

Dragoon Brewing Company is something of a family affair—brewing beer has been a shared hobby between company founder Bruce Greene and son Eric Greene for years.

“My dad has been brewing beer since way back when and it was always around when I was growing up,” Greene said. “When I was 22, I started really getting into it. We spent a couple of years putting up roots, and little by little this came together.”

Though they’ve only been in business a short time, Dragoon Brewing Company is already selling beer by the keg to local bars and businesses like Noble Hops, 1702, Wilko, The B-Line and Time Market, said Tristan White, director of sales and marketing.

“The support we’ve received so far has been unbelievable,” White said. “It’s been crazy, people have bought our beer without even trying it.”

White, who met the Greenes through the Tucson Homebrew Club, said the team is hoping to brew beer with a Southwestern kick in the near future.

“We will have two year-round beers and seasonal rotations,” White said. “For our upcoming brews, we want to try things like blue corn with agave and mesquite-smoked Porter.”

The brewery now has a taproom open to the public late afternoons from Thursday to Saturday. Though the hours aren’t finalized, Dragoon Brewing Co., hopes to have their taproom open for tasting from 4-8 p.m. on Thursday, 3-8 p.m. on Friday and 2-8 p.m. on Saturday—check their website for more details.

“We’re intentionally taking things slow because we want to make sure we know what our beer is,” Greene said. “But, it’s been really awesome the way things have gone and it’s really cool to have someone excited about what we’re doing. There’s a lot of Tucson, and everyone needs a bit of good beer.”

To find out more about Dragoon Brewing Co., visit DragoonBrewing.com or call 329-3606. For information on the Tucson Homebrew Club, check out TucsonHomebrewClub.com.

A Happy Hour Hit

September 6, 2012 |

Downtown Kitchen and Cocktails

By Kelly Lewis

Janos Wilder’s Downtown Kitchen Cocktails is known for producing innovative cuisine, but Joe Cesar, one of their lead bartenders, has likewise been recognized for creativity in cocktailing.

In 2008, Cesar was selected by a brand ambassador for Grand Marnier as one of the top 100 bartenders in the country.

“I’ve worked in nightclubs, in hotels, in restaurants, you name it,” Cesar said. “But that was kind of my crowning moment. I got to be with the top mixologists in the country, the top sommeliers, the top bartenders, and I saw how the industry is changing.”

Cesar has over 30 years of bartending experience throughout Arizona and California, but his career started right here in downtown Tucson, back in 1979, at Bananas Disco at the Ramada Inn. After a few more bartending gigs and a University of Arizona degree, Cesar moved to California for a bit, where he worked in the film industry and bartended in nightclubs.

When Wilder opened up Downtown Kitchen Cocktails in October of 2010, Cesar saw it as a great opportunity to start working downtown again, and was hired on to help launch the bar.

“We really worked at finding a symbiosis within the bar, by pairing drinks with what helps to bring out the flavors of the food,” said Wilder. “That was really important to us when we began working on our signature drink menu.”

Some of their best selling items include the “Parisian Summer” with Tanqueray, fresh lemon, St. Germaine, homemade hibiscus syrup, Peychaud’s bitters and tonic, and the South Six, (listed below).
“90 percent of what I make in any shift are signature cocktails,” Cesar said. “We really bring it all together with the food and the cocktails.”

With an awesome happy hour from 4 to 6 p.m. and a diverse crowd of regulars, Cesar said he’s happy to be working at Downtown Kitchen Cocktails. Especially since, well, its downtown.

“I started out downtown, and I love being back downtown again,” Cesar said. “I think some of the best bartenders are downtown, and the customers who seem to have a better grip on what’s going on in the cocktail industry are also downtown.”

On Trends in Mixology: “As an industry, I think we’re becoming more creative. We’re using fresh ingredients, and really, anything goes. There are no bad ideas and anything you can dream up can become a cocktail. At this bar, we’re fat washing bourbon with bacon, we’re using ingredients like cardamom and hibiscus. There are no bad ideas. There are bad cocktails, but there are no bad ideas.”

Favorite Ingredients: “Liquor-wise, I love using gin because of all of the botanicals in it. Vodkas are virtually tasteless and although it’s really popular, it’s not my preferred liquor. Gin is just so diverse. It has so many botanicals in it, and gins vary, from Tanqueray No. 10 which has citrus notes in it, to Hendrick’s, which has elements of rose. I just think gin makes a great base.”

South Six
2 oz. Hendrick’s Gin
1/2 oz. St. Germain
1/2 oz. Lemon juice
1/2 oz. Cardamom syrup
2 large basil leaves
2 slices cucumber
Homemade Ginger Beer

Muddle the basil and cucumber in a shaker. Add fresh lemon juice, cardamom syrup, gin and St. Germain. Shake vigorously. Pour over ice in a bucket glass and add a splash of ginger beer on the top.

For more information, visit DowntownKitchen.com.

Tucson’s First Beer Cup

September 2, 2012 |

EVENT – September 21, 7-10pm
Following the success of the sold out summer beer tastings and dinners, Hotel Congress debuts the first annual Born & Brewed: Tucson’s Beer Cup to celebrate Tucson’s best barley & hops!

Local breweries will go “head to head” to win the people’s choice vote for best brew in Tucson.  Nimbus, Borderlands, Dragoon, Thunder Canyon, Barrio and 1702 will bring two of their best beers for the public to sample.  The public decides who wins “Tucson’s Best Beer.”  Winners will receive a handle in the Tap Room at Hotel Congress for a year, plus a giant trophy to display until it’s passed on to next year’s winner. In addition to the beers, plenty of gourmet beer snacks will be on hand (complimentary and some for purchase) to nosh; plus country rock tunes to keep the party going. Tickets available online at www.hotelcongress.com or at the Hotel Congress front desk.

Rooted in Community

July 5, 2011 |
Sparkroot plans by Repp Design + Construction. Courtesy Ari Shapiro

Sparkroot plans by Repp Design + Construction.
Courtesy Ari Shapiro

“Sparkroot is a concept that I have been mulching in my mind for years,” says Ari Shapiro of his latest Downtown venture, set to open in early August at 245 E. Congress St., at 5th Avenue. “It’s essentially the kind of space that I crave as a customer that I don’t feel really exists. The heart and soul of it is a coffee shop, but it’s a coffee shop that brings elements of a restaurant into it.”

Shapiro, who is also the proud founder and owner of three Xoom Juice smoothie shops (one is located in the 245 E. Congress St. strip), describes Sparkroot as a trifecta. It will have three beverage groups: coffee and tea, homemade sodas and boutique/micro beer and wine, and will serve healthy vegetarian fare. “We’re not a bar or a restaurant, or a pure coffee shop. We’re an amalgamation of all three.”

Shapiro shares the details with an energy that conveys measured excitement. However, the more he elucidates on the features of his new business and everything that has gone into it, the broader his smile and the livelier his brown eyes.

As we pour over the urban aesthetics of the Repp Design + Construction plans, Shapiro points out the coffee, bar and kitchen areas, the loft, and the layout of the seating. “There will be individual counter seating; we’re going to have a seven foot community table built by my friend Raj Helweg and have lounge chairs and sofas. We’re making a lot of furniture ourselves, but we’re also buying a lot of mid-century vintage stuff.” Notching up the cool factor is a 1963 Wurlitzer jukebox, with tunes for free, and patio seating along 5th Avenue.

Shapiro makes it clear how important it is to him to utilize local talent and is employing Tucson’s artist community to decorate and build out the space. Contributors include: Troy Neiman making a hanging bike rack and a table made of bike parts, Ezequiel Leoni building a 20 foot window bar facing Congress Street, Travis Edgar constructing a writer’s table.

“If you want a story Jamie, here’s the story – do you know how hard it is to get reclaimed wood?” Shapiro says they bought 480 board feet of Wisconsin barn wood from a man far south on Nogales Highway. “It is gorgeous, and weathered, and mostly red and there is still some hardware in planks. We are using that throughout the space.”

While the layout is certainly unique, what customers won’t get anywhere else in Tucson is the Blue Bottle Coffee Sparkroot is set to serve. Shapiro looked at local options and loved them, but went with the San Francisco based company because it “is at the very leading edge of specialty coffee.”

The beer and wine selections will feature quality options priced for everyone. “All wine is going to be $5 a glass, all day, no specials. I don’t want to serve a $9 glass of wine; I don’t want to serve a $7 glass of wine. And then all beer will be $4 a bottle.”

When it comes to the menu, Shapiro promises healthful options of homemade granola and whole food bars, Panini sandwiches, soups, hummus and more. “Basically, simple fare done with a lot of care and creativity.”

Keep an eye on Sparkroot.com for details on the opening.

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