It’s Cool
by Monica Surfaro Spigelman
Is it hot enough? No need to remind Tucsonans that this oven isn’t expected to turn down any time soon. No problem: Let it broil. Because we can beat the heat with a stick, cup or cone.
July is National Ice Cream Month, designated so by President Ronald Reagan in 1984, so we’re saluting our city’s imaginative cold concoctions. Tucson has so many options for sweetly old-fashioned, defiantly spicy or sour wonders, it’s hard to pick a favorite from all the artisan crafters who are taking frozen comfort to new levels.
History Churns
Scooping his way to the top of the list may be one of the early adopters of ice cream as art form: Eric Lepie. Before there was Ben & Jerry’s there was Eric, churning small batches of oddly wonderful and buttery ice cream from his small shop, first located on Broadway and then in multiple locations dotting our city. Lepie and his ice cream now live at 1702 E. Speedway Blvd. In the 1970s, as now, Eric’s ice creams were eccentric, tasty delights like Gentle Persuasion (prune and oatmeal; get it?) and Cranial Crucial Crusader Crunch (coffee-based, made for astronauts, no kidding). His quality flavors attracted both the famous (Liberace was a customer) as well as loyal locals.
What’s the big deal about ice cream? “It’s just good old-fashioned stuff,” Lepie says, who was ahead of his time with his 1970s weird concoctions. Today, customers still bring grandkids into 1702 asking for revivals of old favorites.
“It’s about fun memories as much as flavor and texture,” says the guy who still reigns supreme in Tucson’s ice cream world. “But no kidding: Your senses will know when the ice cream is good. There’s no mistaking quality.”
So whether your preference is decadently creamy, refreshingly thirst-quenching, sans lactose, vegan or gluten free – turn the page for a few of Tucson’s eclectic frozen options. Get those tongues or recycled spoons and straws ready: ‘Tis the season to dig in to the delicious.
ICE CREAM
1702
1702 E. Speedway Blvd. 1702AZ.com
This haven for craft-brewed IPAs and great pizza has a secret ingredient: It’s Eric, in the back working magic with his Emery Thompson ice cream machine. For years Eric has been creating unmistakable signature ice cream with his delicious pairings and use of deeply wholesome ingredients. Enthusiasts fly in to pick up a few pints for gourmet dining in the Grand Canyon. There are old standards as well as new flavors with good stuff like green chili. Lactose-intolerant beware: only high butterfat content sold here.
Chocolate Iguana
500 N. 4th Ave., ChocolateIguanaon4th.com
You can amuse yourself with nostalgic toys and gnomes as you cool off with your scoop of Dreyers. All sorts of toppings at this decades-old family-run institution. The signature Chocolate Iguana needs a straw, with its mint chocolate chips, whipped cream topping and edible iguana tail (mint stick).
Coldstone Creamery
1927 E. Speedway Blvd. (and four other locations), ColdstoneCreamery.com
They claim they make it the way you want it and it’s true. Your choice of ice cream, made fresh daily, is slapped on the marble slab and then generously swirled with sprinkles or whatever you want mixed in. There are some low-fat options and some non-dairy sorbet flavors.
Hub
266 E. Congress St. HubDowntown.com
A hand-forged USA-made batch freezer is the artisan instrument that helps design the delicious ice creams crafted at The Hub. This summer watch for a bevy of new flavors that take your ice cream to new hip heights, including a spicy rocky road or peach upside down cake. Count on old favorites like salted caramel, as well, in cups or cones. So scoop your fix of cardamom vanilla, head up to the Playground, and leave the heat behind as you watch a sunset.
Isabella’s Ice Cream
Solar-powered truck with a semi-permanent station at Bookmans, 1930 E. Grant Rd. & at local events.IsabellasIceCream.com
For ice cream lovers who fondly recall running after the Good Humor or soft serve ice cream parlors on wheels, there’s Isabella’s of Tucson with its beautifully-fashioned ice creams and sorbets. The ice cream is made with local ingredients (cream from Sarah Farms of Yuma, cane from Mexico, local eggs, locally roasted beans for coffee ice cream), as natural as you can get (pure cocoa powder, fresh fruit purees). Expect a lot more sorbets this summer with fruit fresh from local farms. The station at Bookman’s, like the trucks, is green construction and of course will offer sustainable containers, napkins and spoons. Watch their Facebook page for news about the Bookmans’ station hours and special events.
Santa Barbara Ice Creamery
1058 N. Campbell Ave., 323-1231
Its McConnell’s-brand ice cream churned in Santa Barbara, with plenty of flavors and ice cream cake yum. Local Jo Jensen was a Baskin Robbins franchisee who stayed true to ice cream that can burst with flavor and chunks of candy flecks, depending on your mood.
In an email to Zocalo, Jensen writes: “I’m a little ‘independent’ ice cream shop. I’m not a franchise or a chain. I try to find the best ‘real’ ice cream (the milk from the cows is not treated with rBST) and flavors that customers want that I can. I’m always out looking for new flavors. I don’t make the ice cream here but I sure do make a lot of special order cakes.”
SHAVED ICE FRESCA
Sonoran Sno Cone
Mercado San Agustin, 100 S. Avenida del Convento, MercadoSanAgustin.com
Everyone seems to have their favorite haunt for Tucson’s south of the border bit of summer heaven, theraspados. This kicked-up snow cone is full of diced fresh summer fruits, dollops of ice cream and assorted Mexican syrups. It can be spicy Mango yada or just have sweet berry goodness. Sonoran Sno Cone in the Mercado courtyard is one downtown raspado fav, and this summer expect an evolution at Sonoran Sno Cones with a fresh fruit & veggie juice bar.
For other ways to sing summer’s olé, don’t forget El Charro Café, 311 S. Court, ElCharroCafe.com, where kids can have paletas and adults enjoy scoops or bowls of vanilla bean ice cream drizzled with dulce de lechesyrup.
More Sonora freshness is at Little Poca Cosa, 151 N. Stone Ave., LittlePocaCosa.com, where cool whitehorchata and authentic aquas frescas with summer fruits are fresh daily. Straws required.
GELATOS
Frost
2905 E. Skyline Dr. #286 (and two other locations), FrostGelato.com
If you want to take butterfat down a notch, Italy-inspired gelato is a refreshing alternative. Tucson offers several gelaterias – Frost, run by two University of Arizona Eller grads, is a Foothills or East Side choice, with high-quality fruits and toppings blended into its fat-free sorbets and fine gelatos. The blue décor and sparkling cases are an authentic and fresh Italian presentation. Gluten-free folks, remember to avoid the cookie stick offered with each confection.
Allegro: Il Gelato Naturale
446 N. Campbell Ave. #120, GelatoAllegro.com
More authenticity closer to the University is found at Allegro, where two large circular cases offer unique flavor combinations including pineapple basil and salted caramel. Vegan, gluten and dairy-free requirements respected here as well as the fresh and creamy.
Brooklyn Pizza Company
534 N. 4th Ave., BrooklynPizzaCompany.com
Brooklyn offers a variety of flavors of rich Italian ice cream and dairy free Italian ices. Available in two scoops, pints and 3 gallons for catering. They are also able to make custom flavors for special events.
ICE POPS, SLURRIES & SPRINKLES
There are many others curating innovative ice sticks or jumbo slurpies in a variety of zesty flavors. Scan this quick-hit list for your favorite:
Cyclopsicle
Mobile unit, various locations, Cyclopsicle.com
Find Gus pedaling pineapple jalapeño, cantaloupe or other unique paletas. Word has it they’ll soon be made in the Mercado’s commercial kitchen. Check the Facebook page for summer locations.
Eegee’s
1400 N. Stone Ave. (and over 20 Tucson locales), Eegees.com
Can’t forget a mention of this Tucson original, whose slushes are hot day crowd favorites. Get your brain-freeze slush drink in variety of summer lactose-free flavors.
Epic Café
745 N. 4th Ave. Epic-Cafe.com
You’ll line up here for scoops of Breyers or beloved blueberry almond crumble sundaes. The Epic Orange Cream – mandarin orange, vanilla bean syrup, Perrier, topped with homemade whipped cream comes with an orange straw.
Xoom Juice
245 E. Congress St. (and two other locations), XoomJuice.com
Any smoothie can be made non-dairy, all with pure fruit and juices. You also can go creamy with the soy espresso infusionals.
Cafe Passé
415 N. 4th Ave. CafePasse.com
Go vegan, gluten and lactose free with Oscar Wilde and its chunks of mango and shot of passion fruit.
Ike’s Coffee & Tea
100 N. Stone Ave. #111, 3400 E. Speedway Blvd. #121
Caffeinate as well as refresh with one of Ike’s shakes, including the German Chocolate chiller.
Caffé Milano
46 W. Congress St. 628-1601, CaffeMilano.com
Old-country Italy is downtown on the Caffé Milano patio (re-opening after Carlo and Laura’s return from Milan on July 18). Lunchtime you can stop by for a mangia e bevi. Translated “eat and drink,” this is simple Italian comfort refreshment – your basic ice cream sundae with ice cream and fresh fruit. Order a strong steamy espresso (schiumato with foam) on the side and drip your espresso over the chilled treat. Sit back and (almost!) feel as you would if you were al fresco in Milan.
GOOD OL’ CHAINS
Baskin Robbins
904 E. University Ave. (and eight other locations), BaskinRobbins.com
Can’t talk summer cool without mention of this rainbow-sprinkled specialty chain on University. Select your fix from rows of sweet concoctions and lots of topping choices including marshmallow or fudge. Check website for promotion and summer flavor treats, like strawberry-lemonade sherbet.
Dairy Queen
501 N. 4th Ave. DairyQueen.com
Dilly bars, dipped cones, parfaits – it is Tucson’s favorite All-American, soft-served goodness! This temptation has been a 4th Avenue mainstay for more than half a century. Who doesn’t line up on a summer evening for a chocolate-dipped soft serve or a beloved Blizzard, full of fruit, chocolate, cookie or candy. Watch for summer specials. You can go gluten or lactose-free here with their slushies.
Pinkberry
University of Arizona Student Union, 1303 E. University Ave. Pinkberry.com
Since 2005, this now-global franchise has been the anti-ice-cream frozen yogurt of choice for healthy summer refreshment, and it is here in Tucson on campus. Its fresh fruit and eclectic toppings are great-taste options. Lots of live and active cultures are offered in traditional and season flavors. Watermelon Pinkberry is a thirst-quencher. Kosher certified. Pinkberry takes pains to note that: “While we take steps to minimize the risk of cross contamination, we cannot guarantee that any of our products are safe to consumer for people with peanut, tree nut, soy, milk, egg or wheat allergies.”
We’ve come a long way since Roman emperor Nero ordered ice to be brought from the mountains and combined with fruit toppings. Tucsonans are handcrafting some spicy and artsy pleasures. Go enjoy something off-beat! In this heat, ice cream or a frosty alternative is your best friend!
Photos top to bottom: Kristel Johnson of Isabella fame shows off her locally produced and sourced ice creams, including chocolate chocolate chip, cookies and cream, mixed berry sorbet and pistachio nut, photo by Lee Spigelman; Eric Lepie’s hot weather antidote at 1702, photo by Lee Spigelmen; HUB Ice Creamery, photo Edward McCain, courtesy of HUB; A Mango Strawberry Sonoran Sno Cone, made from the freshest fruits and syrups, photo by Lee Spigelmen.
Category: FOOD & DRINK
