Tag: 4th avenue

good eats: maya quetzal

I try not to shy away from eating out solo, especially when a reticence to do so might stand in the way of me enjoying some damn good food. The other day I had an hour to kill before work, so I headed up the street to have lunch at Maya Quetzal, a spot I’d had my eye on practically since the day I’d arrived in Tucson.

A lot of entrees at Maya Quetzal are battered and fried. They have pupusas (only my favorite goddamn food ever) and chile rellenos, as well as this ridiculous-sounding appetizer, called rellenitos de platanos, consisting of plantains stuffed with cheese, deep-fried, and served with chipotle mayonnaise oh my god does that not sound amazing!? I resisted it all and went with an option that wasn’t fried, or covered in cream, or stuffed with cheese: the chile rostizado. Was it healthy? Meh. Was it delicious? Most definitely. The chile rostizado is an Anaheim chile stuffed with a mixture of potato, onion, garlic, mushroom, and tomato; the whole thing is topped with a mild melted cheese and a smooth tomato sauce. Rounding out my plate at Maya Quetzal were black beans, short-grain rice, and a small salad of shredded green and purple cabbage.

I was surprised that the chile retained a bright flavor even after being cooked until it was soft and pulpy. The flavor of the chile was rounded out nicely by the earthy, fuller flavors of the mushrooms and cheese. The mushrooms also added a mouthy—almost meaty—texture and flavor to the filling. The potatoes were cooked until they were incredibly soft, and they were well-seasoned with garlic and onions. The tomato sauce was little more than a watered-down paste, but as a tangy complement to the flavors of the stuffed chile it worked well.

Like the tomato sauce, the sides were unremarkable. I hadn’t eaten much of the chips and salsa that had been delivered to my table as I’d sat down (not because they weren’t delicious—the salsa was spicy and the chips were crunchy—but rather to save room for the main course), and I was glad to have the salsa to pour over my beans—literally spicing them up. The beans and rice, once augmented by the addition of the salsa, were decent. The cabbage salad was bland, but its crunch and freshness offered a nice complement to the softer, richer textures and flavors of the rest of the meal.

I got the impression that the woman waiting my table was also the dishwasher and the chef; accordingly, the service at Maya Quetzal was brusque. The overall atmosphere of the restaurant was less cozy than I would have liked—the high ceilings and the cool, lime-green walls didn’t work for me. Perhaps at dinner time, when I assume the place is fuller with patrons, the space might seem more intimate and welcoming.

Overall, I enjoyed my meal at Maya Quetzal, and I’ll be back in the future to try out another one of their intriguing dishes (probably the rellenitos de platanos…).